I work on front-load, top-load and stacked units. I'll tell you straight if the machine is worth fixing. A 12-year-old Whirlpool with a bad lid lock is worth a repair. A front-loader with a shot tub bearing usually is not, and I'll say so before you spend money.
Sounds like this?
- Won't drain, or stops with water in the tub
- Won't spin, or spins slowly and leaves clothes soaked
- Shakes, bangs or walks during the spin cycle
- Fills slowly or won't fill at all
- Leaks from the front, back or underneath
- Error codes: OE, UE, LE, F5 E3, F21, nd, dc, and others
- Lid or door won't lock, or won't unlock
- Burning smell or a loud grinding noise
What I do on the visit
- 01Run the machine through its diagnostic mode and read the stored codes
- 02Check the drain pump and filter, drive belt, motor, lid lock and water valves
- 03Give you the repair price on the spot, with the $75 diagnostic coming off if you go ahead
- 04Fix it that visit if I have the part, or order it and come back to finish
- 05Show you what caused it and how to keep it from happening again
Brands I see most for this
What shows up in customers' homes. Not a claim of factory authorization.
- Samsung
- UE and UB unbalance errors from worn suspension rods, drain pump failures, and the notorious front-load drain filter clog.
- LG
- OE drain errors, LE motor errors, and door lock and boot leaks on front-load models.
- Whirlpool, Maytag and Amana
- F5 E1 through F5 E3 lid lock codes on top-loaders, shifter and actuator failures, and worn drive belts.
- GE
- Mode shifter and lid switch problems, drain pump failures, and control board issues on newer top-loaders.
- Kenmore
- Most Kenmore washers are Whirlpool-built, so the same lid lock, belt and pump fixes apply.
Questions I get asked
- My washer stops with water still in it. Is that the pump?
- Usually the drain pump or something stuck in it: a sock, a coin, a bra wire. On front-loaders I check the drain filter first because that fixes it about half the time. If the pump itself has failed I replace it.
- Is it worth repairing a washer that's over 10 years old?
- Often yes. Older top-loaders are simple and parts are cheap. I'll give you a repair price and tell you plainly if I think the money is better spent on a replacement.
- Can you work on a stacked washer and dryer in a closet?
- Yes. I work on stacked and compact units regularly, including the ones in apartments and townhomes in Frisco and The Colony where there's barely room to open the door.
- Do you fix front-load washer bearings?
- I can, but I'll be honest about the cost. On most front-loaders a bearing job means pulling the whole tub, and the labor can approach the price of a new machine. I'll quote it and let you decide.